South to Hoi An.

This adventure started by boarding a bus. It cost us all of USD8 per person to travel from Hue to Hoi An- a few hours away. Expecting a greyhound coach, the bus pulled in and cerainly met expectations from the outside, however, when we entered it was a 'sleeping bus'. Two 'decks' seat three seats across that recline to a sleeper. It is extremely interesting to say the least. I do imagine you could travel overnight in it. It holds about 48 but allows all to stretch your legs straight out and recline to a sleeping position - quiet ingenious really.

We arrived at Hoi an about 5 pm, thanking our lucky stars we were not going any further on the bus. I think we were booked on the cheaper sleeping version and I would not recommend it, I've heard the the Sinh Tourist bus is the best, but I'm not sure even that would be worth it unless you were on a very strict budget or very young and hardy.

Hoi An that first night was a little disappointing. We ventured from the hotel about 730pm to find something to eat but it was hard to orient in the dark. No major light sources could be found and we ended up in a local eatery with chicken and noodles at 20,000 VND per head (about $1). Adequate, but we were wondering where we had found ourselves.

The next day we walked into town, and what a difference light makes. We managed to find our way a little better and found a beautifully quaint and picturesque historic town hugging a river. Buying some tourist tickets we were able to visit some authentic historic houses and museums that help put the little town into some perspective. Hoi An is an ancient trading town that has had settlements going back to the Iron Age which has only been rediscovered in the last 20 or so years. The town itself has been listed as a world heritage site due to wonderfully preserved nature of the town centre. Apparently trade died after a series of unfortunate natural flooding events which moved the trade centre north to Danang. As a consequence, the town was pretty well bypassed for development and as a result, it is wonderfully preserved. Some of the family chapels have donated ancient royal decrees and artefacts as recently as 2005 - some of these are two and three hundred years old. It makes me realise how young we are in Australia as a comparison (although I do admit our indigenous heritage - but lament the lack of documentation).

We spent a day at the local beach - cu dai - where B2, L and M spent some time on a jet ski, while B1 and I read, slept and walked. In the restaurant attached to the private part of the beach, we ate seafood and enjoyed a bottle of wine. We all felt it a very different beach experience from what we are used to in Australia where it seems a little more egalitarian.

Another day we cycled around the town, enjoying a relatively flat path that enabled us to take the Coe of the village in (and L and I scope out the shopping areas).

On yet another day, the boys hired motorbikes and went for a tour around the countryside. Unfortunately it rained quite relentless and they ditched half way through the day, looking like drowned rats. This day, L and I visited the tailors and had our bespoke dresses fitted (!). Nothing fancy, but it is rather nice to have something made to fit perfectly and not to 'make do'. Had I have known, I'd have saved for an entire year and had a suitcase ful made....the prices were quite extraordinary. There were bookmakers as well that could tailor shoes perfectly - a little pair of leather saddles for about $20... however I didn't need any more shoes!

He weather set in a little and we decided to leave Saigon (as the locals call it).