Salamanca

We left Madrid mid morning after a leisurely breakfast. We caught a taxi to the train station and then we took a three hour train ride through the countryside to Salamanca.  The train travelled rather quickly - the screen saying we were reaching speeds of 154 km/h and we were comfortable in our seats, with a table and fellow travellers Meir and Chiquita from Melbourne sitting opposite.  

The view out the window was of open vistas of rolling mountains.  Initially with what looked like rather native Forrest’s of stunted trees which I guess were about 2 metres high, but according to Meir could be hundreds of years old.  The soil in which they were growing was rough and rugged, so to have survived and got to the size they were was a feat in itself.     Further into the mountains we started to see small farming villages of a dozen or so houses - two stories with small yards and vegetables gardens.  Some with inground swimming pools.  Between these villages were open fields.  Some sheep, horses and one or two cows could be seen as well as sown fields…some looked like harvested wheat; others with a young tree crop I couldnt recognise, while others were being cut for hay.    The journey went rather quickly and it was lovely to see the countryside after spending a few days in the centre of Madrid. 

Once we got off the train we walked about 20 minutes to our hotel which is situated well in the old quarter right next to the Plaza Mayor and Mercado and easy walking distance to the attractions. 

After a quick refresh stop to regroup we went on a walking tour.  First we explored the Mercado - built in a similar style to the Mercado San Miguel in Madrid - with rather fancy ironwork.  Unfortunately the stalls were closed as the whole town is preparing for a festival.   We did however see the price of the local ham - 350 EUR per kilo….for 75% Iberian ham!  

The San Juan de Sahagún festival which commemorates the patron saint of Salamanca, featuring bullfights, food, and a celebratory fireworks is tomorrow and it is a local holiday.  It often coincides with Salamanca's annual medieval market, offering artisan goods and treats however we unfortunately will not be in town.

The next stop on our tour was the Plaza Mayor - quite magnificent in its depth and breadth for a much smaller town than Madrid - I prefer this one. In the middle is a temporary central stage where rehearsals were happening all afternoon - the plaza’s four sides acting as an amphitheater.

Plaza Mayor Salamanca

After marvelling at the Plaza, we walked up to see the ‘modern’ University de Salamanca (founded in 1218) to see the The Casa de las Conchas, which now houses a public library, is a symbol of the influence of the Catholic Monarchs in the city

We then rounded a corner to see the Old Cathedral and New Cathedral. When rebuilding a New Cathedral they couldn’t bare to demolish the beautiful work of the old, so they kept it and joined them together.

Down the hill we walked across the Roman Bridge - built in the FIRST century and still strong and sturdy and in use today.

At the conclusion of our walk, down the hill, we then ambled gently back up, spending time marvelling in more depth and the intricacy of the stonework, the size of the doors, the clean lines and clean alleys and lanes.  There was a busker playing lovely guitar music which made a complete sensory picture - a quant, loved town with peaceful music.  

Rounding the corner back to the Plaza Mayor, we decided to sit in one of the restaurants, have refreshing drink or two and share a seafood paella, while we people watched and saw a continuation of the rehearsals for the festival.  This time, we watch eight or so young women in harnesses do some trapeze dancing while dangly from a rather large crane.   Nigel, one of our fellow group members, told us it would not be allowed in Australia - as you are not allowed under any craned item….this whole performance relies on the crane uplifting a round platform that the trapezes are strung from….it was quite mesmerising to watch.