V5 travels: Across the water and down the coast

We were scheduled to leave Palermo Sicily at 8.15 pm, it was probably closer to 9 pm when we actually left. The sunset over Palermo and by the time we were in the bay, the city was shrouded in night lights - a few fireworks went off - we have no idea what for though! We found our cabin, and explored the decks and bars - deciding there wasn’t really much to see or do. We had a drink in the “Show Bar” which we think just meant televisions and then had a quick bite at the self-serve buffet. Once we had eaten there wasn’t much to do other than return to our rooms. No wifi or phone signal meant it was a good night of reading before turning in. Our twin single room was adequate, definitely not luxurious, it had clean sheets and a clean bathroom, but very hard mattresses. The hum of the boat engines sent us to sleep.

At 6 am the next morning the loud speakers went off advising that preparations were being made for docking at the port, we should leave our cabins and return to the reception area. We did this thinking it was a quick exercise - we should have taken our time as it was nearly 7 before we actually docked - and more like 7.30 before we were leaving the boat in our cars. The nightmare of taking 5 lanes of cars to one to exit the ship was excruciating - pure Italian madness - no waiting, no courtesy, just every car for him/herself! V4 opted to drive again and did a great job.

That was not the end of our madness though…twe hit peak hour in Naples, and had opted not to take the autostrade as we wanted to see a bit. It put us on cobbled roads (I have no idea why there is zero suspension in Italian cars!), and the every car for him/herself ruled the roads too….we just adopted the ‘don’t blink’ chicken strategy and finally made it through to Herculeneum!

It was too early for the historical sit to open when we arrived so we found a little cafe and had capuccino and croissants for breakfast. We then rented some audio guides and explored the site. It is a surreal experience to think you are walking roads and into houses that were standing 2000 BC! The art, the sophistication and ingenuity of people in their village were amazing. Metal workers who forged and created chandeliers and statues. Food shops that sold lunches to the hoards that had terracotta warming jars, communal bathing houses that had both hot and cold baths; beautiful gold jewellery; glassware cups, bowls and jugs; fishing hooks and systems used on boats; winches…just mind blowing for me! The saddest thing was to see the skeletons huddled in the arch ways at the waters edge - the fear they must have felt in an event they had no or little understanding of made me a little somber.

We left and headed south to Praiano where we were booked for the next three nights. It seemed we were close to our destination for over an hour but it took forever. The narrow winding roads on the Amalfi coastline need to be experienced - my words can’t do justice! Huge tourist buses around blind corners on what is barely a two lane road, with parked cars on one side or the other means there is a constant tooting of horns to alert anything coming the other way you are over the line. It was nerves of steel - by both driver and passenger - I admit to grabbing the “Jesus handle” on more than one occasion! we found hour hotel - Hotel Pellegrino but there was nowhere to stop as we had cars behind us and no where to pull over so we continued on until we could find a way to turn around - not easy! Eventually we did turn around and managed to find a parking spot about 50 metres from the hotel. We walked ourselves and luggage in - only to find they would valet park our car in the garage…something that was a relief as I can only imagine the damage done to cars by inexperienced drivers on this route. Nether of us wanted to be up for the insurance excess on the hire car!

Our hotel room is lovely - we have a verandah that looks over the sea - with the front of the building covered in star jasmine, so the smell is sweet and reminds me of home. We took a walk down to the village and a little beyond (walking on the road as there is no footpath) and purchased some cheese, salami , olives and biscuits for a late lunch. we sate on the verandah, overlooking the water, sipped our drinks and ate and just relaxed after such a tense morning.

Dinner was at a local eatery, outside on a terrace. We enjoyed pizza and pasta and drinks while watching the sunset - very special!